Proposed Route: Avigliana-Alba
Estimated Mileage: 47 miles/75 km
Actual Route: Avigliana-Asti
Mileage Covered: 51.07 miles/84 km
Average cycling speed: 15.56 mph
Maximum speed: 32 mph
Cycling time: 3 hours 16 minutes.
Terrain: Flat at first, then gently undulating over the Asti and Monferrato hills.
Weather: Sunny. Wind Force 3 variable.
Degree of Difficulty:
Narrative:After
the drama and excitement of yesterday, today's ride was little more than a Monday
poodle, as we skirted our way around Torino and descended down to the wine town
of Asti. The terrain was mainly flat, the high outline of the snow-covered Alps
never out of sight. The contrast with the blizzard conditions and freezing temperatures
we experienced yesterday morning, and the warm Italian sunshine and blue skies
of today could not be greater.
Indeed, the contrast between our sojourn through
France and our entry into Italy could not be greater either. It is not surprising
that such a formidable barrier as the Alps creates a natural national frontier,
a solid barrier between countries and cultures. Nonetheless, it comes always
as something of a surprise -- albeit a most welcome one-- to experience so immediately
and unmistakably the day to day reality of being finally in Italy. It is not
just the warmth of the sunshine: there is also the immediate a warmth of the
people too, as we experienced yesterday with Nello's family. On the other hand,
the roads are worse, the surface especially bad for cycling (today we rode our
Orbits again, and I am surprised that we did not puncture our thin tires or
bend our rims). There is lots of noise and activity, too -- mopeds and scooters,
people in the streets, markets, smells and colour -- a considerable contrast
to the quiet, indeed isolation of much of rural France that we passed through,
hamlets and towns where people seem to live behind their doors, not outside
of them.
Neither Harry nor Hugh have been to Italy
before, so it is all a new experience for them. No more patisseries in
every village for tartes aux fraises or charcuteries to purchase
lunch, certainly, but Italy is second to no country in gastronomic pleasures
and treats, we keep assuring them: there is for a start quite simply the best
gelato in the world,not to mention Italian espresso, a treat we indulged
ourselves en route during today's cycle. The towns and campsites are less well
sign-posted, and they are finding the driving and navigation less easy than
in France. But these are early days, and they will acclimatise quickly, we are
sure. Italy, after the order and tranquility of rural France, may seem somewhat
chaotic and hectic at first: but this is a country that quickly gets under one's
skin and we certainly hope that they will enjoy the next few days as much as
we know we will..
As far as the cycling goes, we are defintely
over the hump now (and a jolly big hump it was, too), and though it is not quite
downhill all the way to Venice, the riding itself should be relatively straightforward,
relaxed and enjoyable.
So tonight, another chance to catch up with
some friends, winemaker Mario Fontana from Alba as well as Mario Ferraris, who
worked at Nello's as a chef last year, and whose family has a rosticceria
here in Asti. What's for dinner tonight? Some nice ripe Italian melon followed
by a grigliata mista cooked outdoors over charcoal.
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